Mabel Suen
Wright’s Tavern’s Caesar is so covered in Parmigiano-Reggiano you can’t see the green of the leaves.
Though Caesar salads have become so ubiquitous you can find them everywhere from high-end steakhouses to fast food value menus, a properly done, quintessential version reminds us why they’ve become such an essential part of the American dining canon. Though our town has a few exciting modern interpretations, these five classics show why the Caesar is such a beloved dish — and has so much staying power.
Twisted Tree Steakhouse
Perhaps it’s the croutons — golden, oil-saturated fritters that should be their own food group — that make Twisted Tree Steakhouse’s (10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills; 314-394-3366) Caesar so delicious. It could be the chilled metal bowl, the fact it’s served family style and dressed tableside, the crisper-than-crisp lettuce or the zesty dressing. No matter the reason, there’s no question that this Sunset Hills steakhouse produces Caesar magic.
Wright’s Tavern
Chef Cary McDowell of Wright’s Tavern (7624 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; 314-390-1466) set out to make a Caesar salad so classic it defines the form. He’s achieved this, and then some. Crisp, chilled romaine, covered with anchovy-laden dressing, balanced by razor-sharp lemon, is coated with so much Parmigiano-Reggiano you can’t see the green of the leaves until you tuck in with your fork. It’s a masterpiece.
1929 Pizza & Wine
Matt and Amy Herren’s pizzas may be encouraging diners to check out historic downtown Wood River but the Caesar salad they serve at their restaurant 1929 Pizza & Wine (7 North Wood River Avenue, Wood River, Illinois; 618-216-2258) will have you coming back again and again. Shockingly tender romaine hearts are accented with bright dressing, bread crumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese; it’s like fireworks in your mouth.
The Bellwether
Riding the still-hot kale Caesar trend, the Bellwether’s (1419 Carroll Street, 314-380-3086) version stands out for its unapologetically garlicky dressing and the caper tapenade that balances the anchovy-forward presentation — bonus points that they place a few fresh ones atop the salad.
Union Loafers
The Union Loafers (1629 Tower Grove Avenue, 314-833-6111) Little Gem may get all the attention, but its Caesar salad is no less thrilling, amped up by capers, chili flakes and those glorious seasoned breadcrumbs. Thankfully, they don’t make you choose between the two; the Little Gem is available at lunch while the Caesar is a night time-only thing.
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