A Food Lover’s Guide to St. Louis City

This year, we’re bringing you a guide to restaurants we love throughout St. Louis’ many neighborhoods. These favorite spots have cemented their legacies and are joined by many new spots that are destined to become classics. These, and all the restaurants in our guide, were curated by RFT Restaurant Critic Cheryl Baehr. Read on to discover many of the great places to eat in St. Louis city, and then check out her introduction as well as her picks for St. Louis County and as well as St. Charles County and the Metro East.

DOWNTOWN

Cinder House

At Cinder House (999 North Second Street, 314-881-5759), acclaimed chef Gerard Craft has created a menu of dazzling South American-style dishes inspired by his Brazilian “Dia,” or childhood nanny. Small plates such as crab ceviche or crispy shrimp and squid evoke a Brazilian beachside barbecue, while entrees are one masterpiece after another. The five-star rendition of feijoada is a must-try, and meats grilled over a wood fire are as good as the offerings at any steakhouse in town. The food is made more thrilling by the stunning setting; the view from the eighth floor of the Four Seasons is simply awe-inspiring. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 8 a.m. Rooftop patio open daily from 2 p.m. to close.

Havana’s

After beginning as a stall at the Soulard Farmers Market, Havana’s (1131 Washington Avenue, 314-449-6671) became a food truck during the pandemic and, two years ago, a cheerful brick-and-mortar on the western edge of downtown. The wait was worth it. The Cuban sandwich is justifiably owner Tamara Landeiro’s signature, but she proves time and again she can make anything magical between two slices of bread, including the pan con lechon, with succulent, slow-cooked pork atop Cuban bread, and even a ropa vieja sandwich. And it’s not just sandwiches — Landeiro excels with empanadas and croquettes. $. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Kimchi Guys

Located in Laclede’s Landing, the fast-casual Kimchi Guys (612 North Second Street, 314-766-4456) serves Korean fried chicken along with dumplings, sandwiches, Korean BBQ bowls and a host of Korean/Mexican fusion items like the Korrito (a burrito stuffed with kimchi-fried rice plus your choice of protein). Vegans aren’t ignored, with both bowls and “takos” available with spicy, marinated plant-based chicken. Thirsty? Kimchi Guys serves not only soda and water but the Korean beer Hite and soju, the vodka of Korea. $. Opens at 11 a.m. daily, with service until 8 p.m. Tuesday through Wednesday until 9 p.m. Thursday through Monday.

Rooster

Since taking over culinary operations for Bailey’s Restaurants in 2021, veteran chef Cassy Vires has left her mark on daytime mainstay Rooster (multiple locations including 1025 Washington Street, 314-241-8118), infusing the menu with her talented, homestyle touch. Adhering to a farm-to-table model and sourcing local ingredients, Vires’ menu offers a modern take on breakfast, featuring crêpes, scrambles and breakfast sandwiches, including vegan options. Settle in for a bountiful brunch at an eye-catching and practical community table that creates a beautiful centerpiece in a serene Downtown space while enjoying traditional coffee beverages, or branch out with a matcha mint latte or a Dreamsicle smoothie. If you need a little something spicy with your scrambled eggs, opt for a cocktail. $. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

LAFAYETTE SQUARE / SOULARD

The Bellwether

The main dining room at the Bellwether (1419 Carroll Street, 314-380-3086) is downright sexy with luxe velvet seating, brocade tapestries and Moroccan-inspired hanging lanterns. It might put you in the mood for indulgence, which is perfect because you’ll never want to stop eating the restaurant’s exquisite dishes. Entrees like venison osso bucco, braised in juniper and red wine, and shockingly fresh seafood ravioletti offer a modern take on elevated, globally influenced American fare. Also on offer is a list of delectable cocktails and a wonderfully curated wine list, filled with lesser-known varietals. Order something for yourself or your date and see where the night takes you. $$$. Sizeable rooftop patio. Open daily from 5 to 9 p.m. and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for brunch Saturday and Sunday.

Hamilton’s Urban Steakhouse and Bourbon Bar

Hamilton’s (2101 Chouteau Avenue, 314-241-2333) is a high-caliber steakhouse, but it has a cozy, neighborhood feel to it — it’s the sort of place you’d go with business partners to celebrate closing a deal rather than the pretentious place you’d take a new client to seal it. Still, the menu hews to the template, with a show-stopping dry-aged ribeye and a terrific Kansas City strip. Unlike corporate steakhouse chains, Hamilton’s includes your choice of side dish with each steak. Get the roasted-garlic mashed potatoes. When the juice and rendered fat of that ribeye mingle with these garlic-laden beauties, you hear the angels sing. $$$. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Jack Nolen’s

For some top-notch smash burgers, look no further than Jack Nolen’s (2501 South Ninth Street), which serves its crispy-on-the-edge, melty-in-the-middle patties on potato buns. Owner Jim Grindstaff has been studying burgers for a while — even blogging about them — and has perfected a blend of chuck, short rib and brisket to create a quintessential burger patty. You can stack it up with a triple cheeseburger or get spicy with a Firecracker Burger complete with jalapeño relish. Not into meat? Check out the pesto grilled cheese or plant-based chicken nuggets. Or order the fries, which are a meal in their own right. We recommend the Bluetine Fries, a play on Canadian-style poutine. These are still covered with brown gravy, but instead of cheese curds, you get blue cheese crumbles on top. The no-frills Soulard establishment doesn’t have a phone, but you can order takeout online or dine in person. $. Closed Monday. Open Tuesday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Sundays 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub and Garden

For 44 years, John D. McGurk’s (1200 Russell Boulevard, 314-776-8309) has been giving local bargoers an authentic taste of Ireland in the midst of St. Louis’ French quarter. Dimly lit and filled with exposed brick and dark wood, McGurk’s sprawling interior offers the preeminent place to experience a pint outside of the Emerald Isle — unless it’s a lovely autumn day, in which case you should enjoy that pint next to the fountain in the stunning courtyard. It’s no wonder Esquire named McGurk’s one of the best bars in America. A full menu of stick-to-your-ribs food offerings pairs perfectly with the environment. $-$$. Gigantic patio. Opens at 4 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and 11:30 Friday through Sunday.

Mayo Ketchup

Mandy Estrella, a.k.a. Plantain Girl, made her name holding pop-ups all over the metro with dishes from Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. That success led her to open a brick-and-mortar in the heart of Lafayette Square four years ago in the sunny storefront that old-timers remember as Arcelia’s. Mayo Ketchup (2001 Park Avenue, 314-696-2699) is extremely efficient — you can order on your phone or at the counter, and the takeout operation runs like a well-oiled machine (a very good thing during a global pandemic). But don’t mistake efficiency for soullessness; whether it’s a sampler full of treats like empanadas and fried plantains, or heartier offerings like rice bowls or sandwiches, the food here is lovingly prepared and graciously served. Linger over a cocktail or bring the kids for an early dinner; you’ll see plenty of regulars doing both. Sidewalk seating. $. Open from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Planter’s House

Planter’s House (1000 Mississippi Avenue, 314-696-2603) is St. Louis’ temple to the cocktail. Together with his wife and fellow bartender Jamie Kilgore and their partner Ted Charak, acclaimed mixologist Ted Kilgore has parlayed his expertise into the gold standard for bars in St. Louis: friendly staff serving up absolutely terrific cocktails in two of the handsomest rooms in town. The kitchen, captained by chef Sam Boettler, makes it possible to go to Planter’s House for a dinner of Moroccan-spiced rack of lamb or duck carbonara and leave satisfied even without having a cocktail. But this is Planter’s House; why on earth would you want to do that? $$. Patio. Open 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday. Open until 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Polite Society

Sitting either at the attractive bar or in the dining room of Polite Society (1923 Park Avenue, 314-325-2553), you’ll feel like an invited guest in someone’s stylish Lafayette Square home. The menu has as much to offer someone looking for a cocktail and quick bite as someone looking for a multi-course dinner. Add to the mix a thoughtful beverage list and servers who provide easy hospitality and, well, let’s just say that if the world was more like Polite Society, we’d all be happier. $$$. Open daily 5 to 9 p.m., with brunch Saturday and Sunday.

The Wood Shack

Chef Chris Delgado has imbued his quick-service restaurant the Wood Shack (1862 South 10th Street, 314-833-4770) with the sort of swagger typically reserved for more upscale establishments. From a cozy space on a tree-lined Soulard street, he smokes his own meats and serves top-notch sandwiches including the Soulard Primer, a prime rib sandwich that puts to shame every roast-beef sandwich that came before it. Meanwhile, the Three Cheesy Pigs is a pork lover’s dream, pairing peppery, thick-sliced bacon with pulled pork and smoked ham on a French baguette with luscious comte cheese, pickled okra and pungent Champagne mustard. The standout side is the mac and cheese, a velvety concoction of corkscrew noodles and three-cheese sauce, its richness cut with crushed black peppercorns. $. Limited seating inside; picnic tables out front. Opens daily at 11 a.m.

BENTON PARK & ITS NEIGHBORS

Benton Park Cafe

Last year, Benton Park Cafe (2901 Salena Street, 314-661-2368) regulars Elicia Eskew and Gavin Haslett took over the 15-year-old breakfast and lunch spot from co-founder Jessica Lenzen with an eye to carrying forward its legacy. The cafe got some light renovations before reopening with largely the same menu and the same coffee supplier. The morning menu holds a variety of standard breakfast pleasers — omelets, pancakes and whatnot — and a wide range of specialties such as the McGrittle This (a pancake egg sandwich) or the Chairman of the Board (steak, eggs, carb of choice). Lunch fare includes pizzas, soups, salads and a variety of themed sandwiches. Naturally, there’s a good espresso menu and other beverages. $. Open Monday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Blues City Deli

Since 2004, owner Vince Valenza has been the de facto ambassador of Benton Park, serving his impossibly good sandwiches to a crowd that turns this little stretch of south city into an impromptu street party any time the weather is good. Blues City Deli (2438 McNair Avenue, 314-773-8225) prides itself on having the feel of a “big old house party,” one where you’re likely to find yourself out back playing washers. Beer only. $. Sidewalk seating. Open 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge

Chef/owner Frazer Cameron’s cooking strikes a balance between contemporary style, market freshness and good ol’ American comfort. The menu features steak, salmon and other popular dishes, but regulars know to check the chalkboards outside the kitchen for the specials: multiple catches of the day, a king crab boil, pork schnitzel — who knows, really? The cocktail list, too, is endlessly changing, with four seasons’ worth of selections in addition to a roster of classics. Few places are more fun to drink than the bar at Frazer’s (1811 Pestalozzi Street, 314-773-8646), which has not only excellent cocktails but a snazzy mid-century modern vibe. $$-$$$. Patio. Opens at 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Station No. 3

At Station No. 3 (1956 Utah Street, 314-925-3883), owners Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff tapped years of culinary cleverness developed at Frida’s and Diego’s to put together an ideal menu for plant-based eaters and omnivores alike. Set in a former gas station, the Benton Park spot delivers elevated American pub fare/barbecue: nachos, popcorn chicken, burgers, brisket sandwich. Most of it is vegan but so convincing in its meat mimicry you might never realize it. There’s also a small menu of flex items containing animal proteins — a turkey burger or sandwich, a barramundi sandwich — so everyone in the party has something for them. Highlights include the vegan burnt ends, the Station Burger and the luscious soft serve. $$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from noon to 9 p.m.

Little Fox

When Craig and Mowgli Rivard moved from Brooklyn, New York, to Craig’s hometown of St. Louis in 2019, they imagined themselves opening a modern interpretation of the quintessential neighborhood restaurant. They found the perfect space in Fox Park, partnered with a prominent architecture and design firm, and put together a vibrant menu, exciting beverage program and a hospitality ethos that would become the lovely Little Fox (2800 Shenandoah Avenue, 314-553-9456). The pandemic blew up their ideas about what the place could be, but the husband-and-wife team clawed their way back up the cliff through innovation, adaptation and a refusal to cede their dream. The result of their tenacity is a Little Fox that feels even more vital to the neighborhood than it did before — and even landed a spot on the 2021 New York Times Restaurant List. $$-$$$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m.

Lona’s Lil Eats

Owner Lona Lao hails from the remote southwestern part of China — closer to Laos and Burma than Beijing — and her mother is Thai, and her father is part of the Lao Lao tribe, which boasts a rich barbecue culture. Lona’s Lil Eats (2199 California Avenue, 314-925-8938) draws its inspiration from her paternal heritage, but those other influences are woven into its fabric as well. Lao and her partner, Pierce Powers, opened their fast-casual restaurant in 2014 and have been wowing diners since. The menu is simple: dumplings, wraps and plates. But Lao’s flavor combinations are so unique and multilayered, your mouth will be dancing long after you finish your meal. $. Sidewalk seating. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Lucky Accomplice

When Logan Ely announced the opening of Lucky Accomplice (2501 South Jefferson Avenue, 314-354-6100) in 2020, he said he wanted a friendly neighborhood gathering place that his then-restaurant, Shift, could not fully be. He achieved that, and then some, without dimming in any way the luster he first brought to Shift. Dining at Lucky Accomplice will make you think differently about food even though it resists the pomp and circumstance of fine dining. Expect something soulful yet refined, like grilled pork collar with bok choy and crispy rice or Roman-style fermented potato gnocchi, as well as a top-notch cocktail list. $$$. Open Wednesday through Saturday for dinner and cocktails. Catch brunch from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and dinner from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Sundays.

Milque Toast Bar

More an open-faced sandwich shop than a fancy toast spot, this cozy McKinley Heights gem will make a believer out of even the most trend-averse skeptic. The “topped toasts” at Milque Toast (2212 South Jefferson Avenue, 314-833-0085) — slathered with an ever-changing roster of toppings such as goat cheese covered with truffled mushrooms, or a luscious blue cheese version spiked with Louisiana hot sauce — are simply delicious, with soups, stews and a few sides completing the menu. Smoothies, malts and fun drinks like a hibiscus fizz change with the seasons. $. Patio. Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily.

Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

For his sophomore effort, Sidney Street Cafe executive chef Kevin Nashan transformed the former Niche space in Benton Park into a whitewashed beach shack with the freshest seafood in town. Diners can feast on everything from lobster and crab boils to oyster po’boys to freshly shucked oysters and peel-and-eat shrimp. The signature dish at Peacemaker (1831 Sidney Street, 314-772-8858) is its lobster roll. Served either Connecticut style, with drawn butter, or Maine style, with mayonnaise, the shockingly fresh meat is wrapped in a bun that is half brioche, half Texas toast. Meat lovers should not shy away from Peacemaker; its brisket sandwich rivals those served at the town’s best smokehouses. Boozy slushies add to the summer vacation vibe. $$$. Sidewalk seating. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Sidney Street Cafe

Chef Kevin Nashan’s cuisine is defined less by a particular genre than by a feeling — a sort of refinement of texture and flavor that comes from the hand of a master (is there a better seafood chef in town?). It’s no wonder that he’s achieved national recognition for his work, including the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest in 2017. The vibe at Sidney Street (2000 Sidney Street, 314-771-5777) is romantic, with exposed brick walls, a dark bar and knowledgeable servers who know their way around a wine list. You can get adventurous with an Asian-inflected appetizer from the ever-changing chalkboard list or order a steak with béarnaise. Either way, rest assured it’s been given Nashan’s Midas touch. $$$-$$$$. Opens daily at 5 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.

CENTRAL WEST END/CORTEX