Mabel Suen
Chiang Mai’s som tum, or green papaya salad.
Discover the restaurants we love in 2023
Mabel Suen
This year, we’re bringing you a guide to restaurants we love throughout St. Louis’ many neighborhoods. These favorite spots have cemented their legacies and are joined by many new spots that are destined to become classics. These, and all the restaurants in our guide, were curated by RFT Restaurant Critic Cheryl Baehr. Read on to discover many of the great places to eat in St. Louis County, and then check out her introduction as well as her picks for St. Louis city and as well as St. Charles County and the Metro East.
Mabel Suen
Like blintzes made from phyllo, Zamir Jahic’s pitas are stuffed, rolled and baked so that the exterior gets golden and flaky while the interior remains gooey and tender. Ordered by the pound rather than by the piece, the pitas come both sweet and savory. The latter include a simple cheese version, which oozes with mild and gooey kajmak, a housemade buttery spread that is like the lovechild of feta and boursin cheese, making for a pillow-soft, cheesy version of a fried spring roll. More traditional sandwiches at J’s Pitaria (91 Concord Plaza Shopping Center, 314-270-8005) include a wonderful doner kebab and a Bosnian-style chicken panini. No alcohol; counter service. $. Open Wednesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
The intoxicating scent of garlic, Parmesan and dough that greets you upon arrival to Liliana’s (two locations including 11836 Tesson Ferry Road, 314-729-1800) is a precursor for what’s to come, which really ought to begin with an order of cheese garlic bread. At this charming, old-school Italian joint, chef/owner Tim Pieri dips crusty Italian bread into a concoction of melted butter, garlic and Parmesan, then covers it in mozzarella cheese before placing it in the oven. The result is a cheesy, butter-saturated wonder. Housemade meatballs and eggplant lasagna are equally dazzling, while the St. Louis-style pizza may well be the best in town. $$. Opens at 11 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Drive-through window for pizza.
What started as an unlikely bastion of barbecue at the All American Sports Mall in south county has become one of the area’s most delicious smokehouses. There have been some changes over the past year. Nubby’s BBQ (6030 Telegraph Road, 314-293-9686) now boasts a standalone second location on Telegraph and has new owners after founder Matt Hines took over longtime south county institution Roberto’s. One thing that hasn’t changed, though, is that Nubby’s continues to serve up top-tier barbecue and delicious deep-fried finger foods, like a handmade crab Rangoon that is rolled up like a taquito. The brisket, the pulled pork and the Texas-style burnt ends will have you coming back for more, but the sleeper hit just might be the pizza, which has nearly eclipsed the barbecue — a major feat considering how delicious that ‘cue is. $$. Opens 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.
Anything you might presume about Twisted Tree (10701 Watson Road, Sunset Hills; 314-394-3366) based on its location in a Holiday Inn parking lot will get checked at the door, as the fast-food joints and chain stores of Sunset Hills give way to a sophisticated bar that could be a million light years away — or at least several miles to the northeast in Clayton. Dim lighting and sleek, backlit finishes illuminate a lounge packed with would-be patrons waiting upward of two hours for a table. It’s not just hype; Twisted Tree’s food is worth waiting for. The onion rings are famous, the steaks are expertly cooked and the batter-dipped lobster tails are terrific. Even the salads (made tableside to your specifications) are seriously good. The service, too, is impeccable. $$$-$$$$. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Owner Mary Boehne could have done just about anything in the food world, but she chose to focus on breakfast and lunch for her first restaurant, Yolklore (8958 Watson Road, Crestwood; 314-270-8538). At this counter-service spot, you’ll see the same thought given to bacon and eggs as you’d see in an entrée special at a trendy evening bistro. This results in innovative dishes, such as Yolklore’s signature Nest Egg, a biscuit-like shell filled with eggs, bacon, cheese, pickled onion and preserved lemon, and a frittata with goat cheese, mushrooms and tomato jam. Don’t let the innovative menu items fool you, though. Yolklore is equally the place to go for the old-fashioned comfort of biscuits and gravy or a slinger. No matter what you choose, you can be in and out in a flash — or simply head through the drive-through for the best fast food you can get. No alcohol. $. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday — and 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekends.
MABEL SUEN
The name DD Mau (11982 Dorsett Road, Maryland Heights; 314-942-2300) roughly translates to “hurry up” or “let’s go.” But for all its speed, the counter-service spot takes no shortcuts. Owner Julie Truong’s food is both innovative and fiercely authentic, customizable yet appealing to fans of traditional Vietnamese food. A vermicelli bowl features such traditional accouterments as crushed peanuts, cilantro and pickled vegetables, but it can be tossed with a dressing, such as the funky Vietnamese vinaigrette, which infuses it with depth and heat. All bowls come with your choice of protein. Spring rolls, pho and banh mi round out a perfectly executed menu. No alcohol. $. Open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Closed Sunday.
On the surface, El Morelia Supermercado (12005 St. Charles Rock Road, Bridgeton; 314-209-0014) is an expansive Latin-food grocery store where customers can find anything from crispy bolillos to mortars carved from volcanic stone. But on the weekends, El Morelia Supermercado transforms into a pop-up taqueria. Ricos Tacos stand sets up inside and serves up fare that will spoil all other tacos for you. Protein offerings include steak, marinated pork, carne asada, lengua (cow tongue) and more. Plus, there’s a bar with fresh salsas and toppings, so you can curate each bite to your liking. Take a break from shopping to enjoy some of the most authentic street tacos in the St. Louis area or go to Bridgeton solely to enjoy El Morelia’s food. Either way, city dwellers will find its worth the drive. $. El Morelia Supermercado is open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday but closes an hour early on Sunday. Find tacos from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends.
St. Louis-style pizza is one of those polarizing points of discussion — you either love it or you hate it. But at Serra’s Pizzeria (12218 McKelvey Road, Maryland Heights; 314-739-0881), you’ll love it no matter your stance. Tucked into an unassuming building next to a strip mall off a busy Maryland Heights street, the pizzeria specializes in our beloved thin-crust pie. Each ‘za is made with Provel cheese, the St. Louis way, and the list of toppings is neverending. But the menu doesn’t begin and end with pizza. With sandwiches, pasta, burgers, salads, eggplant or chicken Parmesan, fish filet and more, there’s something for everyone within the bounds of Serra’s menu. $. Closed Monday. Open Tuesday through Thursday, as well as Sunday, from 4 to 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. to midnight.
The massive, 12,500-square-foot Westport Social (910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights; 314-548-2876) is sleek and stylish, with two rooms featuring everything from foosball tables to bocce courts to full-size basketball pop-a-shot setups. Food and drinks match the modern vibe, nodding at classic bar food but transcending the baseness often associated with the genre. The pizza and burgers are both solid choices, and if the nachos show that the kitchen can elevate classic appetizers, the wings prove they can put them on a jewel-crusted pedestal. The plump drummies and wings are smoked, infusing the juicy meat with flavor without overtaking it. $-$$. Opens daily at 11 a.m.; open until 1 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 p.m. Sunday.
Phuong Bui
Inspired by her culinary trips around the U.S., Cathy Jenkins opened Cathy’s Kitchen (250 South Florissant Road, Ferguson; 314-524-9200) as a way for diners to eat their way around the country without ever leaving north county. Her menu is divided not by starters, entrees or sandwiches but by state, each category filled with the specialties she enjoyed from each place. Look for Chicago-style Italian beef sandwiches, New Orleans jambalaya and Memphis-style pulled pork on this edible road trip in the heart of Ferguson. $. Outdoor seating. Open 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
The Old Town Florissant digs housing Hendel’s (599 Saint Denis Street, Florissant; 314-837-2304) have a colorful past: The century-old storefront used to be a grocer. But there’s nothing old-fashioned about the food. Try the German potato soup with its zippy hint of vinegar or the smoked shrimp en croute; there’s also a full menu of steaks, chicken, fish and pasta. Other perks include enthusiastic, rosy-cheeked service; a comfy dining room; and outside seating in a serene garden. Kids’ menu. $$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Chef and co-owner Wesam Hamed, whose résumé includes such notable spots as Ranoush and Layla, has been cooking his delicious Palestinian fare in north St. Louis County since 2013, first opening Kaslik (7847 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Hazelwood; 314-972-8282) in Florissant before moving to its current home. The place is a charmer, with thoughtful touches throughout and equally good food. Hamed’s signature shawarma remains excellent. Likewise, the lamb chops, falafel and hummus are so authentic you might be convinced you’re sitting on the eastern Mediterranean rather than in the middle of north county. Don’t miss the baklava. No alcohol. $$. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
At the Kitchen (14065 New Halls Ferry Road, Florissant; 314-831-9292), there are only four tables and an order counter. The intimate dining room almost ensures you’ll feel like family, which may be why proprietors Mary Nguyen and Kristin Liu named the restaurant what they did — to evoke feelings of home. The sisters grew up in the restaurant industry after their parents opened Chinese Gourmet in Florissant in 1984. Now a portion of the Chinese Gourmet location is the Kitchen, a new take on fast-casual Chinese American cuisine. But the sisters still include some favorites from Chinese Gourmet, such as the hot braised chicken wings. Another dish is the yang chau fried rice, made with Chinese sausage, whole shrimp, pork, onion, carrot and green beans, all on a bed of yellow-tinted rice. The dish is traditionally served at Vietnamese and Chinese weddings, a fitting offering for a restaurant that celebrates family. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday.
From a contemporary storefront in the heart of north county, Pearl Cafe (8416 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-831-3701) consistently offers what’s arguably the best Thai food in St. Louis, with a voluminous menu of noodles, fried rice, curries and noodle soups. Innovative chef/owner Scott Truong is always looking for ways to reimagine Thai cuisine through dishes like the Phorito or Thai Burger. Add in an extensive beer selection and 150 single-malt scotches, and you’ll see why Pearl Cafe is so much more than your usual Thai spot. Kids’ menu. $$. Patio. Opens at 10:30 a.m. weekdays and at noon Saturday.
For more 40 years, Pirrone’s Pizzeria (1775 Washington Street, Florissant; 314-839-3633) has been serving up quintessential Sicilian American comfort food in the form of deep-fried cannelloni bites, cheese sticks and salads that consist of little more than iceberg lettuce, Provel and a heavy-handed dousing of dressing. The big draw, however, is the pizza, a rectangular riff on the St. Louis-style cracker crust with cheese just a little bit gooier and sauce a little bit sweeter than the norm. Get it with pepperoni, Italian sausage or hamburger, and revel in the delight of a vibrant orange cheesy grease-slick that pairs perfectly with a frosty mug of draft Bud Light. $$. Opens Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m. and Sunday at noon. Lunch buffet available weekdays.
The menu at Thai Kitchen (8458 North Lindbergh Boulevard, Florissant; 314-695-5039) consists of familiar Thai dishes, though the recipes are uniquely Andie Ongartsutthikue’s, having been passed down through her mother’s family for generations. Her version of the northern Thai noodle soup khao soi, for instance, is spicier than others. The warm heat is more haunting than assertive, sneaking up on the back palate and lingering. Meanwhile, a tangier, more tomato-forward presentation of curry is the base of the gang quah shrimp, a rich, brothy concoction meant to be served over rice. The star ingredient is pineapple, cut into chunks and warmed by the broth. $-$$. Open for lunch and dinner every day but Tuesday.
Photo courtesy of Yelp / Kitty W.
The menu at Chuck-A-Burger (9025 St. Charles Rock Road, St. John, 314-427-9524) may be filled with delectable American classics like burgers, fries and malts, but the most wonderful thing served at this north county institution is pure nostalgia. For more than 50 years, the restaurant has existed as a living slice of history, maintaining the tradition of the quintessential 1950s soda fountain down to its car hops, old-school jukebox soundtrack and classic car cruise nights. This is the culinary version of poodle skirts and saddles shoes, yet it’s anything but passé. Fashions may have changed since Chuck-A-Burger opened for business, but its greasy-spoon diner classics have stood the test of time. No alcohol. $. Curb service in addition to inside seating. Opens daily at 11 a.m.
If you’re looking for a taste of Central American cuisine, El Guanaco Taqueria & Pupuseria (10633 Page Avenue, 314-274-8022) is a top destination. Serving food from El Salvador, Honduras and Mexico, El Guanaco keeps the menu fairly traditional, offering classic versions of empanadas, pupusas and menudo (Mexican tripe soup). If you just want a basic quesadilla or taco, you can get that, too, making the restaurant a great place to try new things while still finding something for your picky children to eat. Located near the intersection of Page Avenue and Highway 67, El Guanaco offers fancy vacation-quality food in a casual location. $$. Open from 10 a.m. until 9 p.m. daily.
Located in a shoebox of a building off Page Avenue in Overland, Fire Chicken (10200 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-551-2123) seems unassuming until you taste the food. Based loosely on traditional Korean fried chicken, Fire Chicken is the brainchild of husband and wife Min and Michelle Baik, two industry veterans who, after years of running restaurants focused on Japanese cuisine, are now proudly showing off their Korean culinary heritage. The restaurant’s namesake dish, a sticky sweet and searing-hot concoction of deep-fried boneless breaded chicken akin to the hot braised chicken you’d find at an American-style Chinese restaurant, is something Min has been perfecting for years. Noshing on this masterpiece, you can tell that time and care have paid off. $-$$. Open Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4 to 8:30 p.m., open Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Closed Sunday.
A nondescript building on a nondescript stretch of Page Avenue is home to an Indian restaurant whose food is anything but nondescript. Haveli (9720 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-423-7300) offers a wide selection of chicken, lamb and vegetarian dishes, with lists of specials for both omnivores and vegans. Goat curry is a standout, rich and gamy, while navratan korma is a complex vegetable dish capable of winning over the staunchest carnivore. Lunch and dinner buffets. $$. Open 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday.
Regulars will swear that their beloved Nick and Elena’s Pizzeria (3007 Woodson Road, Breckenridge Hills; 314-427-6566) serves the best St. Louis-style pizza in town. We have to hand it to them: With a flavorful crust that’s always crisped up just a little more golden brown than the town’s other squares beyond compare, these cracker-thin pies have that ever-so-slight bit of extra heft that makes a St. Louis pie go from good to great. You need that sort of architecture when you’re looking to pile on the pizzeria’s homemade, fennel-kissed Italian sausage — the more the better. $. Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and weekends. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday.
If you’re looking for the gold standard of traditional Korean food in the bi-state area, look no further than Sides of Seoul (10084 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-942-8940). Each menu item attracts a loyal following for good reason. The spot offers a fluffy masterpiece in the form of its kimchi pancake, while its kimchi jjigae is liquid gold. We could go on and on. The robust menu offers Korean food at its finest. $. Open Monday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 7 p.m.
MABEL SUEN
Long before Maplewood was a dining destination, back when St. Louis’ Italian restaurants were mostly limited to “white sauce or red?” there was Acero (7266 Manchester Road, Maplewood; 314-644-1790). Jim Fiala’s flawlessly executed spot served nothing like the city had ever seen. More than a decade in, Acero feels as stylish, and essential, as ever, with menu items that include a seafood crudo and prosciutto-wrapped pastries called gnocco fritto as well as the expected pasta, fish, steak and rack of lamb. Do not skip the egg raviolo! $$$-$$$$. Patio. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m.
After moving to St. Louis from Miami, Maria Giamportone and Daniel Gonzalez opened Asador del Sur (7322 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314-802-8587) to be a traditional South American-style grill, a place that honored their respective Ecuadorian and Uruguayan heritages. Both food and setting are luminous, with meat, seafood and wine not typically see
