Alex Donley
Behold, the Eighth Wonder of the World…or at least the Hill.
Owner Alex Donley realizes that Gioia’s Deli’s (multiple locations including 1934 Macklind Avenue, 314-776-9410) King Cod sandwich goes against everything sacred about the Catholic season of Lent. Gluttonous, decadent and an object of pure pleasure, the Hill institution’s answer to the church basement fish fry is more an act of sin than one of penance. Still, Donley and his team couldn’t help themselves when genius struck and just had to share their fish sandwich masterwork with the rest of the world.
“My mom has this awesome mac and cheese that she only makes during Lent,” Donley says. “We had some left over one day, so me and the crew threw some on a sandwich and were like, ‘Oh, that’s good, but it needs some crunch,’ so we threw some Red Hot Riplets on it. We all stopped, looked at each other and said, ‘This is one of the best sandwiches we have ever made.’ “
Any time of year besides the 40 days before Easter, Gioia’s Deli is known for its hot salami, a mix of pork and beef that is so iconic, it earned the restaurant a prestigious James Beard American Classics award in 2017. In fact, the salami is so synonymous with Gioia’s, the restaurant’s business historically tanked on Fridays during Lent, when many in the heavily Catholic neighborhood abstained from meat in observance of the religion’s solemn season. Donley and his crew knew they needed to do something to help boost sales during the slow time of year — and they were confident the King Cod could do it. They just didn’t realize how much it would turn things around.
“We took a picture, put it online, and the next day we sold out in an hour,” Donley says. “It’s a frenzy. I feel like a farmer during the harvest during lent; it’s all hands on deck. It’s become our busiest time of year because of this King Cod. It’s the only sandwich ever to outsell the hot salami.”
Donley credits his crew with coming up with the King Cod, and notes that nearly all of the deli’s specials come from the off-the-menu concoctions they put together on their lunch breaks. He believes the key to this particulars sandwich’s success, aside from its outrageousness, is that the deli uses the highest grade of cod they can find. Though the deli does not have a fryer, he and his team are able to get that crisp, fried fish feel thanks to the deli’s workhorse ovens the bake at a high heat.
Donley also notes that, although the sandwich is delicious as it comes, it can be customized with a variety of toppings. His preference is to add the deli’s housemade giardiniera and a little splash of vinegar and oil.
“You add that, and you’ve got something sinful,” Donley says. “It’s definitely an indulgence. I eat one the first Friday of Lent with a grape soda, and I only allow myself that one for the season. They’re amazing, but it’s hard to work after eating one of those bad boys.”
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